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Misc Cable Info from a Former Cable Installer (long) -
19th June 2010, 01:09 AM
I joined the forum just to post a reply to a thread, but it developed a life of it's own, so I hope this helps someone... If there's any interest in a more thorough, researched (I forgot much of the jargon), and illustrated version, let me know by PM. I'm not going to waste my time if no one is interested, and for all I know all of this is common knowledge, but I've been amazed by the horrible installs and lack of common sense I've seen in anything coax related...
Background/Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing, so don't do *anything* with this information. It is all absolutely false, and I was not a cable installer a few times for a few different companies... Plus I forgot alot of technical terms, so I'm making up names of things when necessary.
main types used by cable installers.
Terminator tool (Star-type): A screwdriver shaped tool that has a knob on the top that tightens/loosens a serrated disc at the bottom. The tool is inserted with the knob loosened, then the knob is tightened which makes the "star" become locked in an offset position. This causes enough friction on the internal, lower part of the terminator to turn it and remove it. This kind of terminator tool works better on corroded, stuck, crossthreaded, etc. terminators because it's harder to damage. Also, if I remember correctly not all terminators have the grooves (slots) to use the other kind.
Terminator tool (Spring-type [or whatever it's called]): This kind is also shaped like a screwdriver but towards the top of the shaft there is a sliding grip that when pulled toward the handle retracts two fins (or whatever they're called). The tool is inserted into the terminator with the fins retracted, the grip is released allowing spring pressure to force the fins out, and the fins lock into grooves in the inner part of the terminator allowing it to be turned and removed. This kind of terminator tool was my preferred type except in the situations listed above. They are more easily damaged though, so if you're only getting one tool and need it to last a long time and work on every terminator, I'd get a star tool.
Cable Box (at drop - side of house): The cable co.'s side of this box often is only locked with a terminator and a tamper-proof tag. Just so you know, the colors are codes for what kind of service you have, and the numbers are recorded on the paperwork the installer carries (if he/she did the job properly). There is usually a tag at the tap too.
Ground box: These often have a cheap key lock. The companies I worked for often didn't supply keys for every possible lock since they changed over the years and in different territories. We often opened them with a swift kick to the top of the key side and snapped them back into place by lining them up and whacking the top with a tool, hand, or boot.
Sleeve tool: This looks like a socket with one side cut out and either a ring or a hex for a wrench or a wire handle. It's used to slip down over the coax connector and turn it when the cable company has installed plastic or brass "sleeves" that are designed to stop you from using pliers/a wrench/your fingers to unhook a connection they don't want you to mess with. Unfortunately, these often need to be messed with if you need to install an outlet and an over-zealous installer and/or overly-strict rule caused them to be on every exterior connection.
Splitters and splices: Use as few as possible for the outlets that you're actually using. Having more lines ran is a good thing, but if they don't need hooked up at the moment, don't waste signal quality on keeping them live. Use the lowest signal loss side of the splitter (-3.5 on a 3-way for example) for cable modems, the main TV, digital boxes, etc. whenever possible. Use the smallest splitter possible too, and make sure that they are high-quality.
Cable: Use high-quality cable for least signal loss... 90% of the time you want any new cable to be RG-6 not RG-59. There are some situations when RG-59 is better, but I don't know the details. Shielding also varies, but it's another thing I don't know much about. Heavier cable with tight fitting compression ends and a center "stinger" that ends even with or slightly past the threaded part is usually decent cable. If you can bend the stinger to easily or it feels like it's going to break the cable is crap.
Cable (types): Use Aerial Cable when running drops, use Underground-rated cable when running underground... There are other ratings too, but these are the most important. You can tell Aerial Cable by the extra wire attached to the sheathing, it's used for tying off to "drop hangers" (I can't remember if that's what they're called or not). All the underground I remember using was orange.
Running Drops: ALWAYS use a ladder with ladder hooks when climbing poles. Make sure they are lowered close enough to the safety line to not slip off! Also, ALWAYS use a safety harness that is properly attached. NEVER, repeat NEVER, try to hang a midspan without hooks... Also, don't cut or untie a cable that's under tension while you're hanging from a ladder on a wire. The cable and the safety wire are under a *lot* of tension, and could snap back hurting you by impact, or worse, launching you from your comfy perch upon your ladder. Make sure you pull new drops tight, if it's a midspan, this makes your ladder lean more towards horizontal the harder you pull... It's freaky, but that's what the safety equipment is for. Always be on the far side of the drop when doing a midspan (you don't want to get hit with a cable snapping back or get launched from your comfy perch upon your ladder) DO NOT EVER rely on your hooks or harness or ladder or grip... Always have a backup and have a backup for that too. Always use the proper drop hangers (stamped metal and wire hanger that keeps the tension on the aerial wire, not the cable), tie them correctly and use drip loops (a usually ~6" loop that allows water from the line to drip off the low spot instead of running into your connections).
Underground: They make junction boxes with a gel-type sealant in them to protect underground connections, use them if you have underground connections and don't want to dig it up regularly to cut off cable ends, crimp new ones, and replace the splitter or splice fitting.
Cable Ends: I prefer compression fittings, and don't trust any other kind. The cheap crimp style ones and especially the "no tool" screw-on ones are junk... If you're having trouble with a cable, try changing the ends first.
Compression tools: Look for a good one that will do RG-6 and RG-59 (especially if you live in an older home). They're a little costly, but a good one will last a normal person a lifetime. Mine cost around $40 and will last me a lifetime assuming I don't become an installer again for many years. Make sure it's adjusted properly using some scraps before doing all you cables. As long as the adjustment screw can be locked down well (mine uses an extra nut to lock it in place) you should only need to adjust it if you switch brands of ends and they are a different length.
Strippers: Get the dual blade kind. These are designed to have one blade cut just the insulation and the other to cut down to the center conductor. I think some have the option of different cartridges for RG-59 vs. RG-6 vs. ?. The stripper/compression combo tools aren't very good and should be avoided unless you really, really enjoy cussing at tools. You may want to make sure your strippers are relatively small if you have to work in tight spaces alot. This can also be done with a razor blade if absolutely necessary, but the spacing, depth, and angle must be right to pass the best possible signal.
Random Tips and Errata:
- I don't remember what they're called, but the clip-on magnetic things that go around a cable can actually make a huge difference in certain situations. I'd have never believed it if I hadn't seen a customer's cable go from almost no signal at all to almost perfect because of one.
- Buy your own amplifier (some cable companies call them boosters) and install it yourself if you need one. The Cable Co. will overcharge you incredibly if you buy one from them. Usually they aren't even necessary if you make sure any signal losses are minimized.
- If you have signal issues check all fittings from the customer-side of the box all the way to each line. If the white insulator part of the cable is not flush with the inside of the fitting and/or the stinger is not flush or slightly past the outer part, replace the end. Sometimes a single wire of the braided part will wrap around the center conductor when stripping or putting on an end. Usually there's no way to know this once it's compressed/crimped. Replace all ends if you suspect a problem. Remove all extra splitters and splices on the path to whereever the signal issue is. Read about splitters above. Swapping splitters between a working branch of the line and a non-working one will help diagnose a bad splitter without a meter.
- Always make sure (even if an installer did it) that holes to the exterior of a building are sealed with caulk or silicone. Also, hide the cables under siding or along trim. Some installers skip this. Inspect before they leave to make sure you're happy with it.
- If you have a bunch of old cable runs in your basement/attic... Get rid of the ones that aren't being used and label the rest. Saves time for DIY and money for hiring out work.
Anyway, that seems to be the stuff that most people either don't know or aren't very clear about when they explain. Hope it helps.
Here's a link from a site I found that shows what crimped and compressed ends should look like when they're correct and how to make them look that way if you're installing them yourself. I'm not affiliated with the site, I just thought it was good info.
h**p://www.dennysantennaservice.com/Coax_cable_end_connector_installation.html
(not clickable - edit to open)
- ExCableGuySkip
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19th June 2010, 01:54 AM
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